It is Raining Stars in Cantabria!

 

Annua, San Vicente de la Barquera

Cantabria, along with the rest of Northern Spain, has always been well known for its great home cooked, traditional food “comida casera” at its many small, family run restaurants.

But it has been raining stars here very recently as well! Since November last year this small region now boasts six one star Michelin restaurants, nicely spread out from east to west, all comfortably near to many of our houses and hotels.

Apart from the sheer excitement of the delicious eye-catching, innovative dishes, the prices surprisingly won’t burn a hole in your pocket for a special treat. The “menus de degustacíon” start off at 55€ a head at La Solana in Ampuero to 88€ at El Cenador de Amos in Villaverde de Pontones, both with wine included.

And as for locations, Annua in San Vicente de La Barquera stands out particularly. Almost “ floating” at the head of the beautiful Ría de La Barquera, as you sample one of the most popular dishes “desierto de foie gras” designed as a desert island, you could almost forgive yourself for thinking you were on one!

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Santiago rooftops

Undoubtedly the best the view in Santiago. We were given a guided tour up twisting stairs and finally out on the stepped roof. The roof was designed so that soldiers could run over the roofs to defend the cathedral. Our visit was late November on a dry winter’s day; you are not allowed on if it’s raining as it would be too slippery. Access is always with a guide who can who can point out important buildings and wax lyrical on history, architecture and Santiago in general. We also visited the Cathedral museum, within the Cathedral complex; invaluable to help get to grips with the long history of the building. It has excellent models and drawings of the cathedral to demonstrate how the building was extended and rebuilt over the last 1000 years.

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Santiago rooftops, a set on Flickr.

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Pazo de Oca

After the roof tops of the Cathedral at Santiago we were taken to the Pazo de Oca, a beautiful old baroque mansion, south of Santiago at San Estevo de Oca, a few miles north of Ponteveda. Pazo de Oca has an enchanting garden of camellias and topiary adorned with statues, ornamental lakes and fountains. It’s laid out on the grand scale but with many hidden corners. This garden was a revelation. It is one of Galicia’s, if not Spain’s best kept horticultural secrets. We saw it in its subtle winter light, and we are looking forward to seeing again in the Spring with the countless camellias in bloom.

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Pazo de Oca, a set on Flickr.

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Viva Viveiro and the Costa Lucence!

The delightful fishing port of O Barquero

The lovely old medieval town of Viveiro with its three impressive gateways leading into its narrow paved streets with quaint, old fashioned shops, hard to find in this modern world, may seem sleepy at first, but come at Carnival time or at Easter and throughout the summer and it boasts some of the best fiestas in Spain and an atmosphere to match!

Situated on the estuary of the Río Landro, dotted all along the coastline in both directions, are the most fabulous sandy beaches and beautiful, cliff backed Playa San Roman is one of them! With our fantastic new property Casa Consul there in a tiny traditional farming hamlet, backed by woods, you could almost roll down the fields into the sea. Friendly farming neighbours will offer you their own produce and bakers’ vans come by with the “best bread in the world”. Laze on the terrace with your book and a glass of chilled Albariño and a plate of fresh prawns, soaking in the stunning coastal view and you will feel that all of life’s necessities have been answered for in just the perfect spot!

Swim, surf or shrimp at the beach or venture out a bit further afield. Just a short drive along the coast is picturesque, yet unspoilt and dreamy Porto O Barqueiro with colourful fishing boats bobbing about in the bay. Feast on the truly fresh catch from the estuary at one of the simple bars there and you won’t be disappointed! Walk out to the most northern point of the Iberian Peninsula “Estaca de Bares” and the tiny, forgotten village of Porto do Barres and its lighthouse in a unique spot overlooking the Mar Cantábrico.

Further along the coast is the almost surreal Ría de Ortigueira and Ortigueira itself which is home to the amazing International Folk Festival in July. Beyond is the Sanctuario de San Andrés de Teixido, a pilgrimage centre dating back centuries, on the highest cliffs in Europe. As legend says ” He who does not go there in life, will go in death”.

Going eastwards don’t miss out on a visit to the Sargadelos ceramic factory (founded in 1806) with the most beautiful fine blue and white china with celtic designs which jump out at your eyes. From here continue along the coast to imposingly placed Ribadeo with its old quarter and La Playa de Las Catedrales with its incredible rock formations  – one of the most spectacular beaches in the world!

Inland from here, lovely Lourenza with its C10th Benedictine monastery and magnificent Mondoñedo with its cathedral will both awaken your senses. And try the special cake from Mondoñedo “Rei de las Tartas” – the King of Cakes and the moustachioed man who invented it will make you laugh.

There is something for everyone in this beautiful, still unspoilt area of Galicia. Viva Viveiro and the Costa Lucence!

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The Saja-Nansa route

Carmona, Cantabria

Lovely Carmona, the essence of rural Cantabria

So good we did it twice!
Whilst staying at Casa Ester in Oyambre we first did the route as a cycling excursion but enjoyed it so much we had to repeat it the very next day with our familes by car.
This circular tour of the Saja-Nansa Valleys must be one of the best ways to discover the ‘real’ Cantabria. In the Valley of Cabuerniga you will find some of the best kept villages in northern Spain along with lovely riverside walks and centuries-old twisted chestnut trees. Follow on up to Barcena Mayor which is a tourist centre for the area and you will find local artisans or cut across to Carmona, an excellent spot for a wander around or perhaps a bite to eat – a real gem.
Having charged your batteries carry on to Puentenansa and follow the Rio Nansa back down to the coast with beautiful mountain scenery and, near Bielva, the entrance to the famous Cueva del Soplao, known as the cathedral of the cave world.

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Picos de Europa – Miradores

Mirador del Fito, above the coast at Colunga

Standing on the outside looking in…

There are many great spots from which to admire the magnificence of the Picos de Europa but few can compare to these two viewpoints – the Mirador del Fito, set above the coast at Colunga and the Mirador del Oso, at the top of the San Glorio pass between Potes and Riaño (its real name is Collado de Llesba but it’s known for the bear statue which stands there). Though just 60 kms apart it’s a two hour drive from one to the other as you are forced to circumnavigate the massif but, we hope you’ll agree, the views are well worth it…

Mirador del Oso, from the San Glorio pass

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The shock of the new – Niemeyer’s futuristic dream in Old Avilés

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Space age Brasilia comes to Asturias
Brand spanking new, just inaugurated in March 2011, the futuristic Oscar Niemeyer Cultural Centre stands impressively on the banks of the Ría de Avilés just over the way from the Old Town.
Designed and donated to Avilés by the great, centenarian, Brazilian architect, Oscar Niemeyer as “a space open to the whole world, a place for education, culture and peace” the project forms the cornerstone of the town’s rejuvenation project – and what a cornerstone!
Exhibitions, musical events, cinema, theatre and dance fill its calendar, which has already attracted world class artists such as Woody Allen, but one extra special treat is its unique restaurant, housed in “the tower” overlooking the river and the city – only seating fourteen you can try innovative dishes cooked by Spain’s top chefs. Put your name down now – there will be a long waiting list, but all the more reason for visiting Avilés!

Ancient Asturias fights back!
There’s a whole lot more to Aviles than the Niemeyer however – within this medieval town of seafaring and country traditions, lies a beautiful, well preserved historic centre with fine examples of civil and religious architecture – graceful, atmospheric squares, impressive, ancient arcaded streets, dignified buildings, interesting churches and lovely parks. Always a favourite with the Casas team, it has an agreeable provincial air, not a monument kept neat and tidy for tourists, but a lively, active place where people actually live and go about their business at its core.

Soak in the atmosphere
Have a morning coffee at one of the terrazas in the main square, the Plaza de España with its imposing XV11 Ayuntamiento (Town Hall) and noble Palacio Ferrera and you might be forgiven that you have gone back to a Renaissance or Baroque age. The six, delightfully named streets – La Fruta, La Ferrera, Galiana, Calle Cuba.. leading off from here will awaken your senses with architecture and monuments of all ages.
Do not miss Los Caños de San Francisco, a C17th century fountain adorned with six human heads, the C13th century Church of Sabugo, the Baroque Palacio de Camposagrado, the “Indiano” residences of Casa Arias de la Noceda and Casa Eladio Muñiz and the unique, modernist, rectangular square of Los Hermanos Orbón with its typical buildings with glazed galleries where the weekly Monday market is still held.

Out for the evening
And come the evening, join the locals at one of the many “chigres” or “sidrerias” (cider bars) in the ancient, balconied street of Calle Galiana and La Plaza de Carbayedo, the heart of the old sea-going neighbourhood of Sabugo. Finish off the day at one of the many restaurants here serving delicious,traditional food of the region and you will feel at one with the town.

Out for the day
No visit to Asturias would be complete without a visit to the fantastic beaches. Jump in the car or catch a train or bus and you’re down to the coast in no time. Playa de Bayas is 15 minutes away followed closely by the justly famous, cliff backed, Playa de Aguilar. If it’s quaint seaside towns you’re looking for pop along to Cudillero and for a lively evening out with a true Asturian flavour try San Juan de la Arena.

Casas Cantabricas have a wide selection of self catering properties and charming small hotels in the area, including the Hotel Don Pedro right in the Old Town

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Picos de Europa – Ian Monro’s spring holiday

Casas regular Ian Monro has graciously allowed us to share his photo’s and memories of his holiday in the Picos in May 2011 – Many thanks Ian!

Common Blue Butterfly on a Pink Butterfly Orchid

Our house in Ojedo was a perfect centre from which we could explore the Cantabrian end of the Picos de Europa. It was in a quiet area just a comfortable walk to shops and restaurants and a five minute drive to bustling Potes, which is the heart of the area and the junction of roads to all quarters of it.

We expected magnificent mountain scenery and it was always around us and with a cable ride at Fuente De we were up amongst the snowy peaks. But there was much more. Just up the road the Centro de Visitantes Sotama provided a fascinating explanation of the geology and history of the Picos de Europa National Park and revealed the riches of wildlife the wide range of environments supported.

The valleys and foothills around us were peppered with picturesque villages and historic monuments like the Monastery of Toribio and the charming pre-Romanesque church of Santa Maria de Lebana.

A highlight of our stay was a day out with Teresa Farino of Iberian Wildlife Tours, a local naturalist with an encyclopaedic knowledge of flowers, butterflies and other insects. Teresa organises regular excursions and there are walks of varying lengths and difficulties in her informative Sunflower Guide.

The weather was better than expected. We had rain and even thunder but it changed quickly and no day was without a spell of sunshine.

There was no lack of photo opportunities. We have many lovely images to remind us of the joys of the Picos de Europa.

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Near Cahecho

Liebana Ian Monro’s springtime holiday, see the full set set on Flickr.

Ian’s wildlife gallery – with thanks to Teresa farino for inspiration and her help with identification…

Adonis Blue againWhite CampionUpright VetchTeaselTrumpet GentianTitanio Pollinalis
Tassle HyacinthSheep's bit speciesSpeedwell varietySpeckled WoodScrambling VetchSpreading Bellflower
Sawfly OrchidShining Crane's BillPyramidal OrchidPyrenean Spiked GrampianPurple Shot CopperProvencal Fritillary
Pink Butterfly OrchidMystery catterpillarMeadow Brown on Greater NapweedMeadow Brown on Creeping ThistleLady's smockMarsh Orchid

Ian Monro – Picos Flora and Fauna, see the full set on Flickr.

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Cóbreces Summer 2011

Luaña beach - old-fashioned seaside fun

Photo blog – Luaña beach, Cobreces, Cantabria
Some memories from a short break at Vista del Mar right beside Luaña beach in Cobreces.

Within 10 kilometres you have lovely Comillas to one side and historic Santillana to the other but we were so happy we didn’t feel the need to go all that far this time!

Most of the time was spent rock-pooling with the kids, belly-boarding or just lazing on the beach and enjoying drinks, snacks and delicious spit-roast chicken at the Bar Luaña.

We did get as far as Novales, 3km away, with its modernist church tower (the original was blown off by a lightning strike) its intriguing network of streams dating back to a history of leather crafts and its innumerable lemon trees testifying to its benign micro-climate.

A similar distance away on the way to Comillas we made a new discovery, Virgen de Remedios. Turn off towards the coast at Tramalon and wind your way along the coastal road with dramatic views. The Virgen de Remedios is a small private chapel but there’s a very nice bar/ restaurant just opened next door and a picnic area perched on the cliff top both of which enjoy spectacular views – a delightful little secret spot and well worth such a long trip!

For us it was back to Vista del Mar for a well earned barbeque – after another quick dip and a ‘cervecita’ of course!

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Cóbreces Summer 2011, a set on Flickr.

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Santiago – Ciudad de Cultura

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Santiago – Ciudad de Cultura, a set on Flickr.

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Casa de Pepa

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Casa de Pepa, a set on Flickr.

Though very popular with in-the-know Madrileños Novales retains a true Cantabrian character as does Casa Pepa. And with Cobreces beach just down the road and Comillas and Santillana close at hand what better base from which to explore and enjoy a great seaside holiday.

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BUS1 El Horreo

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BUS1 El Horreo, a set on Flickr.

Set in a farming community yet with dramatic cliff-top walks and lovely beaches at hand, El Horreo captures the essence of western Asturias – and there’s a great little bar, restaurant in the village too!

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BAR1 Apartamento Miracielos

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BAR1 Apartamento Miracielos, a set on Flickr.

Just west of Llanes at the foot of the mountains Barro is the ideal base to get the most out of eastern Asturias and Apartamentos Miracielos, just up from the beach is perfectly positioned for a great beach holiday!

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COB1 Vista del Mar Upper

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COB1 Vista del Mar Upper, a set on Flickr.

Top floor apartment with sea views just a short walk from the lovely sandy beach at Cobreces – well placed for Comillas and Santillana too!

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CAN1 Pitos Abajo

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CAN1 Pitos Abajo, a set on Flickr.

This apartment on two floors enjoys lovely views out over the orchard to the valley. There’s a shared sidrería for barbeques and roasts!

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CAN2 Pitos Arriba

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CAN2 Pitos Arriba, a set on Flickr.

Nicely restored apartment for four makes a great base for walking, beaches and exploring the fishing villages which make this region famous. There’s a shared sidrería for barbeques and roasts!

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